Keuliminen 100 fzr:ll

Valvojat: B1200, John, Bomber#1, ESKIL, Kimmo, ZX-14R, Bomber Magazine, LEQ, btseppo

Viestit: 2
Liittynyt: Ti Touko 14, 2002 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: fzr 1000

Keuliminen 100 fzr:llä

Viesti Kirjoittaja Maxmaal » Pe Heinä 25, 2003 2:49 am

:drin: No kun ei tunnu onnistuvan ei sit millään....eli mikä avuksi kertokaapas. Välillä pomppaa ihan hyvin mut oikeaa kierrosaluetta ei oikein löydy.....

taitaa olla vika ajajassa...

Eli kertokaas vinkkejä miten saan 1000 fzr:n keulimaan

Viestit: 638
Liittynyt: To Maalis 07, 2002 1:00 am


Viesti Kirjoittaja HBC7 » Pe Heinä 25, 2003 8:46 am

1) The Launch
The launch isn't the most difficult part of doing a wheelie. But I'll spend the most time on this section, because this is where there is the most
variation. The less power you have, the fewer your options are. I'm going to divide the launch into three sections. Rolling it on, suspension help,
and clutch help.

2) Rolling it on
This is probably the safest way, to launch a wheelie, but it doesn't work on an EX-500, or many older 600's. Simply put, just gradually increase
your throttle while in first gear, until you are wide open. If your bike has enough power, your front wheel will just come up. I've found this to
work very easily on a Suzuki TL1000s, and a Yamaha R1. Didn't work on my 93 900rr, sometimes works on my Kawaski ZX-11. Never works on my pocket bike.
If you have a 600 that you want to do this with, just lower the gearing. With race gearing on GSXR600's this technique also works. With the stock gearing,
no way in hell. So exactly how do you roll it on. Go to about 1/3 of your tach range in 1st gear, then in the amount of time it takes you to say
one-thousand-one, have the throttle at full.

3) Using Suspensions to help
Ok, so your bike won't roll it on, but you don't want to abuse your clutch. I'm going to talk here about things you can do, that basically
assist the roll-on wheelie. This may take practice to work well, but understanding the concepts will apply to any bike. If your bike doesn't
do a roll on wheelie, find yourself a steep road, and see if you can wheelie uphill. Is it easier? It should be. The reason why, is that your
center of gravity, has already been moved back, lightening your front end. Once you get the wheel off the ground, it takes less power to get
it higher.

Those first two inches are the hardest part. Before you ride your bike next time, put both feet on the ground, and push as hard as you can on
the front end. Then let it come back up. Practice bouncing the front end up and down. Push hard, and let it come back up. While riding your bike,
you can get a similar behavior, by using the throttle. If you whack the throttle open, the front end will come up. At its peak, if you shut the
throttle down, engine braking, in combination with the weight of your front end will cause it to go back down. When it's at the bottom of its stroke,
if you whack the throttle back open again, you can use the expansion of your front springs, along with your acceleration, to help lift the front wheel.
In fact, it doesn't take much at all, to do this.

I'll use my GSXR with stock gearing as an example. I would get going in first gear, so the tach was at about 8500 rpm. Then I would shut the throttle
down, then whack it back on. Tugging at the bars a little also helps. This snapping of the throttle is a much quicker movement then rolling your throttle
on. Not as quick as you can do it, but I guess that the entire movement should take about 1/2 or less of a second. Basically, go from steady state, shut
down, then full open. After some practice you will learn how to time it with your suspension.

4) Using the clutch
So you still can't get the front wheel to come up? I actually find that clutching it up, gives me the most predictable wheelies than any other method.
Why? Its much easier to do exactly the same thing over, and over. Basically get rolling in 2nd gear to an RPM of about 1/3 to 1/2 of your maximum hp.
This is what worked well on my GSXR-750, with stock gearing. I would go to about 5000 rpm in 2nd gear. Pull in the clutch, rev the engine a time or two,
to time it so that the throttle would be wide open and the clutch releasing as the tach swept 9-10k.

The next thing you know, your front wheel is way up in the air, and your RPM's are at about 8,000 with the throttle full on. At this point, I would
have to roll off some, to find the balance point of the bike. As you learn to do this on your own bike, start out conservatively on your clutch
release point, and gradually increase the RPM's each time you try it, until the wheel comes up so high you have to roll off the throttle a tad.
You may want to cover your rear brake while you are learning this as well, in case you go too high. Standing up fast, will also help put the front
end back down if you over do it. Remember these things!

5) Shifting
Ok, so now you have the front wheel up. How do you keep it up? Shift! It's actually much easier then it seems. When you can ride a long ways in
first gear without being full-throttle, you are more than ready to shift. My favorite way to shift, is without the clutch. If you haven't done
clutchless shifts before, practice on two wheels first. To do a clutchless shift, apply upward pressure to the shift lever, while you are full
on the gas, then just briefly snap the throttle, off an on again. This is the fastest way to shift. When on one wheel, you have to get the front
wheel really high, to the point where you need to let off the gas from tipping over. At this point, shift! Balance and practice are both important
steps here. Practice those clutchless shifts.

6) Bringing it down.
So now your front wheel is going down. Either because you got scared and let off the gas, or you just don't have the power to keep it up. Make sure
that your front wheel is pointing straight ahead, and keep the throttle open Wide! You want to set the front wheel down as easy as possible. If you
chop the throttle, your landing will be very hard, so stay on the gas! Or if you need to come down, just briefly roll off the gas, then get right back
on it again, until the front wheel sets down. Expect a chirping noise, and sometimes at higher speeds a bit of a wobble, but as long as the wheel is
straight, it's not a big deal.

7) Body position
Where you place your body during where wheelie can have some interesting effects. If you put all of your weight on your footpegs, and sorta stand
up, I've found it easiest to get really close to the balance point this way, but it's more difficult to shift while in that position. My reasoning
for why balancing is easier standing, is that I've noticed you don't have to spend so much effort holding your body in place, which is frequently done
by your hands pulling back on the handlebars.

Another reason, could be that your legs are better balance sensors than your butt. In any event, it's definitely worth a try. Hanging off to the side,
was something I really started doing without noticing and I was always veering off to one side.

You might do this, so that you can see where you are going. When your front end gets way up in the air, you can't see over it very well. So you might
have a tendency to lean over one side to get a glimpse around. What I found out, is that you can steer this way. To keep yourself, in the center of your
lane, just hang off, the same as you would if you were riding with no hands.

8) Does this hurt my Bike?
When you are first learning you will probably do more damage to your bike then during any other time. This is mainly because of missed shifts, or rear
brake stomping, or anything that slams your front end down. You may bust a fork seal. You will probably wear out your steering stem bearings faster
than normal, and you will definitely need to tighten your steering head down more frequently. You may also wear your rear tire slightly flat, as hard
wheelie acceleration wears out the centers more quickly than normal. You will stretch your chain out, if you use the clutch method. Another detriment
to the clutch method, aren't clutch wear, but clutch basket wear. The sudden force of the clutch plates against the ears of the basket can notch the
basket. This will prevent you from pulling in the clutch, any time there is load on the engine. Of course, all sorts of fasteners may come loose a
little faster than normal, I've noticed mirrors and other front end body fasteners in particular want to fall off. So check out em out frequently.

9) If you can't get your bike to wheelie, try using more RPM

:deal: :deal: :deal:

Viestit: 204
Liittynyt: Su Syys 02, 2001 12:00 am

Viesti Kirjoittaja vane » Pe Heinä 25, 2003 9:40 am

no vittu varmaan keulii kun annat kaasua.
ja keulii vaikka kolmella pytyllä.

Viestit: 705
Liittynyt: Pe Huhti 12, 2002 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: Yamaha

Viesti Kirjoittaja NorthernBomber » Ti Heinä 29, 2003 10:32 am

Kyllä toi mun kuussatanen keulii aivan ok joten jos tonninen ei keuli niin on jo kumma :freak:

Viestit: 167
Liittynyt: To Syys 12, 2002 12:00 am
Paikkakunta: K4

Viesti Kirjoittaja JB » Ti Heinä 29, 2003 11:20 am

kuustonnia tauluun ja pieni nypäytys kaasulla niin nousee aivan varmasti.
Taitaa olla äijästä kiinni. :upto:
<div><br>      RUOSILANTIE 7<br>          HELSINKI</div><br>

Viestit: 151
Liittynyt: Ma Maalis 24, 2003 1:00 am
Paikkakunta: musta peto

Viesti Kirjoittaja F@zer1 » Ti Heinä 29, 2003 2:36 pm

no jos on vapari vessa niin vaihdappa siihen eteen ekaksi 16 piikkinen! Niin tulee helpompi alotella! Vakiokin lähtee kaasulla 1 llä ja avituksella 2 :lla kulma kohdalleen ja reeniä! ensiksi pieniä matkoja ja sit vaihto ilmassa 1,2,3,4,5 sit voitkin jo opetella jarrua vasten ajamista!

Keulakulma kun on loiva niin veikkaan että yhdet etustefat joudut uusimaan .koska ekat harjottelut ei ole niin pehmeitä alastuloja :lol:

Samoin eturenkaan paineet kannattaa laittaa 3 bar kohdalle ja etupään jouston säätö 3:lle niin ei tipu niin vit....

Ja ei kun vetoa!
....No mitä SITTEN

Viikon aforismi: Vaikka maailma on millä mallilla tahansa, niin
sutenööri se vitut välittää.

Vastaa Viestiin